Eclipse – A Debriefing
Aug24

Eclipse – A Debriefing

I read A LOT about photographing the 2017 eclipse. I’m glad I did. I managed to come away with a few shots I’m proud of. And now that the 2ish minutes of taking photos of the totality are likely over for the next 7 years… I thought I’d put down some thoughts for myself to reference later, and anyone else thinking of trying to capture some amazing pictures of a total solar eclipse in their area.

My Photos:

My Notes:

I had a difficult time using my remote trigger and bracketed shots. Sometimes it would fire off all three and stop (like I think it should) and other times it’d get one or two shots into the next set. This causes an issue where you can’t change settings on the camera until you finish out the bracketed set. This caused me to take a lot of extra photos at the same exposure, while frantically trying to figure out where in the group of three I was. Then when I started to adjust the camera, I went the wrong way, and took shots at very long exposure settings that resulted in washed out useless images.

The blurriness from Image9 could be caused by slightly off focus, or the slightly long exposure time. Many images I took seem to be slightly out of focus- and the two changes I would make for next time would be shooting for shorter and shorter exposure times, as well as shooting tethered to a laptop with a large (and well shaded) screen for instant feedback. The infinite focus on my lens was technically too far, and I had to bring it back just a little to get the sun in focus correctly. If this was bumped, it could throw the next few sets of photos way out of whack. I was constantly checking the focus. Some gaffer tape to lock down the focus might be a good idea for next time, once I am confident it’s dialed in.

I think a big part of the chaos was not knowing where to start the camera. Once I removed the eclipse filter- I had no idea what kind of exposures were going to be needed. Hopefully, the info in this post can assist myself and others as a starting point for a future eclipse. Image1-Image3 and Image10 were all using an eclipse filter. Image4-Image9 were unobstructed, as we were in totality. (Image9 of the diamond ring is technically NOT during totality- and my filter when back on immediately after that photo was snapped.)

200mm seemed to work well. I shot at f/5.0, for no reason other than to stay away from the limits of the lens.  I might open that up some more next time, or research that a little bit more to see if I can, to get better shutter speeds.

I’m still on the fence if this would have made for more amazing photos: Opteka 650-1300mm (with 2x- 1300-2600mm) — The f-stop would be atrocious if there was any zooming at all, although it can be argued that going over 650mm is useless if you want to capture corona during the totality. The graphic from MrEclipse.com should be referenced for this debate in the future:

MrEclipse also has a great chart for recommended shutter speeds.

Overall, taking photos of the initial phases of the eclipse with the eclipse filter on was easy. Plenty of time, conditions not changing that much, very little to actually worry about preparing for. The totality time is what brings all the stress, regrets, and thoughts for next time.

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2017 IndyCar Indy 500 Official Frequencies for CHIRP, Baofeng Radios

If you’ve wanted to listen in to team radio and track announcements- now you can do it yourself for about the same price as rental! Plus you’ll be able to do it every year afterwards at no extra cost.

>>> Download Chirp CSV Frequencies export file <<<

>>> View Frequencies List <<<

>>> Bonus Frequencies to Try <<<

2015_StartV1_1600x800Cars are input on channels that correspond with their number. So if you see a car pulling into the pits, or watching the lead change- perhaps a crash just happened- you should be able to type in the car number into your radio to skip directly to that frequency.  All car and track frequencies are set with “Duplex off” to avoid accidentally transmitting on these frequencies.

I use CHIRP to program my Baofeng radio, and then export it to a CSV file that anyone else can use to import, or use as reference for a different programming method. You are free to use it and share with your family and friends. All driver frequencies are taken from the official spotters guide. Additionally, I have added in frequencies that in the past have included the PA system, race officials, broadcast radio feed, and TV feeds. Some of these might not work- but they are there to experiment with. (Channels 116-127)

I’ve added the NOAA weather frequency on channel 000 for this year.

Finally- my export includes local Indianapolis repeaters and national calling frequencies for HAM operators. You must hold a Armature Radio License in order to transmit on these frequencies- but you can always listen! (Channels 100-115) (Learn more about obtaining your HAM license here)

GEAR—

Don’t have the gear to listen this year? It’s not too late. Amazon has everything you need- and if you’re in Indy- you can get free SAME DAY delivery if you’re a Prime member.

Radio:

Baofeng UV-82 (the radio I use)
Baofeng UV-5R Dual Band ($24.90! With Same Day Prime!!)
Baofeng Black UV-5R V2+ Plus (Same day Prime eligible)

Adapter to make Headphones work

YCS Basics Headphones + Mic / Stereo Headset Adapter Cable for Office/Home Phones

Headphones

Howard Leight 1030110 Sync Noise-Blocking Stereo Earmuff (Same day Prime eligible)
Howard Leight by Honeywell 1010390 Hi-Vis Radio and MP3 Ear Muff (built in radio)
3M TEKK WorkTunes Hearing Protector, MP3 Compatible with AM/FM Tuner

Earbuds – use your own, and then add some standard headphone ear protection (saftey, and better ability to hear radio transmissions)

3M Peltor H10A Optime 105 Earmuff (hearing protection only- use your own earbuds)

PROGRAMMING—

Download Chirp here: http://chirp.danplanet.com/projects/chirp/wiki/Download
Learn how to install Chirp and necessary drivers here: http://www.miklor.com/COM/UV_CHIRP.php

The Miklor site is the best out there for Baofeng info! http://www.miklor.com/

(Other Chirp compatible radios)
If you already own or want to buy something other than the Baofengs listed above- the Chirp software should be able to program any of the following radios.

AnyTone

  • AT-5888UV
    Also includes the Intek HR-2040
    Also includes the Polmar DB-50M
    Also includes the Powerwerx DB-750

Alinco

  • DR-03T
  • DR-06T
  • DR135T
  • DR235T
  • DR435T
  • DJ596T
  • DJ175T

Baofeng/Pofung

  • F-11
  • UV-3R
  • UV-5R and variants
  • UV-6
  • UV-82/82L/82X
    Also includes the GT-5
  • UV-82C
  • UV-82HP/82DX/82HX
  • UV-B5/B6
    Also includes the BF-V85
  • BF-666S/777S/888S
    Also includes the GT-1
  • BF-F8HP
    Also includes the BF-A58
    Also includes the BF-F9V2+
    Also includes the GT-3TP
    Also includes the UV-5RTP
    Also includes the UV-5R7W

Baojie

  • BJ-UV55
  • BJ-9900

BTECH

  • UV-2501
  • UV-2501+220
  • UV-5001

Feidaxin

  • FD-150A
  • FD-160A
  • FD-268A
  • FD-268B
  • FD-288A
  • FD-288B
  • FD-450A
  • FD-460A

Icom

  • IC-80AD
  • IC-2820H
  • ID-800H
  • ID-880H
  • IC-208H
  • IC-2200H
  • IC-91/92AD
  • IC-V/U82
  • ID-RPx000V/RP2x
  • IC-2100H
  • IC-2720H
  • IC-T70
  • IC-T7H
  • IC-T8A
  • IC-Q7A
  • IC-W32A
  • IC-746
  • IC-7200
  • IC-7000
  • ID-31A
  • ID-51A

Intek

  • KT-980HP

Jetstream

  • JT220M
  • JT270M
  • JT2705M (use QYT KT-UV980)
Juentai

  • JT-6188 Mini (use QYT KT8900)

Kenwood

  • TH-D7A/G
  • TH-D72
  • TH-F6A
  • TH-F7E
  • TH-G71A
  • TH-K2
  • TK-260/270/272/278
  • TK-260G/270G/272G/278G
  • TK-360/370/372/378
  • TK-760/762/768
  • TK-760G/762G/768G
  • TK-860/862/868
  • TK-860G/862G/868G
  • TK-7102/8102/7108/8108
  • TM-271A
  • TM-281A
  • TM-D700
  • TM-D710
  • TM-G707
  • TM-V7A
  • TM-V71A

KYD

  • NC-630A

Leixen

  • VV-898

Puxing

  • PX-2R (UHF)
  • PX-777

QYT

  • KT-UV980
  • KT8900 (same as KT-8900)

Retevis

  • H-777 (use Baofeng BF-888)
  • RT-B6 (use Baofeng UV-B5)

Sainsonic

  • GT-890 (use QYT KT8900)

TYT

  • TH-UV3R
  • TH-UVF1
  • TH-9000
  • TH-9800

Yaesu

  • FT-1D
  • FT-50R
  • FT-60R
  • FT-90R
  • FT-817/ND
  • FT-857/D
  • FT-897
  • FT-1802M
  • FT-2800M
  • FT-1900R/2900M
  • FT-7800R/7900R
  • FT-8800R
  • FT-8900R
  • FTM-350R
  • VX-170
  • VX-2R
  • VX-3R
  • VX-5R
  • VX-6R
  • VX-7R
  • VX-8R

WACCOM

  • MINI-8900

Wouxun

  • KG-UVD1P/UV2D/UV3D
  • KG-UV6D/UV6X
  • KG-UV8D
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Mann memorial. A record of the Mann family in America. – by George S. Mann
Jan25

Mann memorial. A record of the Mann family in America. – by George S. Mann

Mann memorial. A record of the Mann family in America. Genealogy of the descendants of Richard Mann, of Scituate, Mass. Preceded by English family records, and an account of the Wrentham, Rehoboth, Boston, Lexington, Virginia, and other branches of the Manns who settled in this country

by Mann, George S. (George Sumner), 1834-1909
Published 1884
PDF |  Full Text  |  Kindle
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Indy downtown lightning – July 13th, 2015

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What is this COMMON CORE?!

10361973_709141529143518_1292437324199569708_nMemes are everywhere about common core. And they NEVER tell the full story.

These photos on the internet are showing a snapshot in time, and asking old people to make a snap judgement on it.  This is new?! What is this?? How are kids supposed to learn?! This is stupid!!!

No it’s not.  There are two reasons this is not new.

1st way to know this is not new. I learned this exact method in 1988. We called it “count-up subtraction.” I don’t necessarily remember doing it in as many steps as this example- but that is EXACTLY what this is: One of many methods of doing subtraction in your head- as described on paper.  Any method you want to teach needs to be explained out on paper- and tested at some point. Just because a student can come up with the right answer doesn’t mean they know why. Maybe they have memorized flash cards (which I totally support… but I never had a flash card that was 1,452 – 766)  – so learning other methods are important, along with showing the understanding and execution of that method.

And that’s exactly what “the new way” (which IS NOT new) is above. Most likely- the teacher explained it as they went.

Hey kids- you already know how to write 32-12, with the thirty-two above the twelve, and then subtract them just one place at a time. You’ve also learned how to “borrow” to avoid negative answers when doing the ones-place column.  Now I’m going to teach you a way to do the same math problem in your head, without pencil and paper. There are times that you simply won’t have them available- and many people find this method to be a good alternative. Once you have proven proficiency with this method- you can choose which one to use in the future for whatever circumstance you find yourself in.

So! Here is how we COUNT UP.  Start with the number that’s being subtracted… twelve… and count up to the larger number. This will give you the number of digits between the two numbers, and that will be the same answer you’ll come up with conventional pencil and paper. To make it easier than just counting on your fingers (since we already know the answer is 20, and you don’t have 20 fingers) I’m going to also show you how to get to easy numbers, and add them at the end. Since you all already have your addition flash cards memorized – this will end up being a very simple addition problem. I know, I know- it’s kind of silly using 32-12 as the example: but we are doing that because it’s already a simple problem- and prove that this method works. We’ll do a harder one next.

Twelve– counting up, becomes fifteen when you add 3. (remember 3)  fifteen becomes twenty when you add 5 more. 5 + 3 = 8. (remember 8) Twenty becomes thirty, when you add ten. 10 + 8 = 18. (remember 18) Thirty becomes thirty-two when you count up by just two more. 18 + 2 = 20. And there is your answer.

Now, refer back to the graphic at the beginning, and it should make sense. But if you never learned this- or don’t remember it (because now it’s automatic in your head) – you might not realize what you’re looking at. As I said before, this has more steps than I remember doing it. I would have done twelve to twenty in 8, twenty to thirty-two in 12. 12+8=20 — there’s the answer again!

The 2nd point to prove this isn’t new- because it isn’t REPLACING anything. No one is saying that kids will only do subtraction this way from now on. It’s a method being taught- and I’m personally glad I was exposed to it in the ’80s.  That same year, my family moved and I switched schools. That first or second day at the new school, we had a subtraction test. I finished in at least half the time of the rest of the class. They saw me “counting up” on my fingers, and finishing really fast. After, I taught a few kids how to do it- they were amazed.

The way we learn never makes sense in that brief moment in time. Think about kids sounding out new words. Are your kids going to read that way forever? Will each “siluh-buh” (syllable) have that hard cadence when your child is 14, and reading Harry Potter books?  Nope. It’s just a step along the journey.

Think of it this way- at some point our kids will hopefully be in advanced calculus. They are going to have graphic calculators. When they see 32-12 in the middle of a super complex problem, they might end up typing it into a calculator.  And this is ok- because they understand how/why 32-12 = 20. But just because a calculator exists doesn’t mean they should skip the first 10 years of math, where they learn basic counting, flash cards, conventional subtraction (“the old way”) and alternative methods (“the new way”) — if you want your kid to learn any of those methods, but you know that one day they will use a calculator- then you should let them learn all the ways to solve a problem.  Not only will some kids find an easier way to do math- but it proves to them that any problem in life can be solved or worked out by taking multiple paths to it.

Finally- I want to address the attitude of, “this isn’t how I learned it” and “it doesn’t make sense to me”

It. Doesn’t. Matter.  — This is your child’s education. Not yours. If you want to learn it, and help your child- I’m all for it. But you can’t just give up, and post angry photos on the internet, and remind the world that you’re an engineer- and common core doesn’t make any sense to you. Some kids are bad at spelling. Others will struggle with algebra. We can’t just give up when school work gets hard. There are times that the way our kids learn will seem “childish” — and that might have something to do with the fact that they are children.   When a child has 10 marbles, and you have them move 3 away, and recount the rest- they come up with the answer 7. Just because you’re teaching that way doesn’t mean I’m going to post photos of marbles on Facebook, and demand to know how you expect kids to do math if they don’t have marbles! It’d be as true as these memes though- because it’s a snapshot in time about how someone is learning math.

Now- the complex problem, using what this meme calls “common core.” Remember- I am typing out exactly what I do in my brain. This will read as a long and drawn out way to come up with an answer– but it’s an answer I can come up with when there is no calculator. It’s one that I can come up with when I don’t have paper and pencil. It’s one I can come up with while driving a car.

1,452 – 766

OK- I’m going to count up. I know (from flash cards) that 100-66 is 34. So 766 counting up to 800 is 34. (Remember 34)  Now, 800 to 1400 is the same as 8 to 14, with some hundreds on the back end. I know that 8 counting up to 14 is 6 (for you can mix it up and use flashcards to do 14-8=6) so for this section, we have 600. 600+34 is 634. (remember 634)  Alright! If we’re at 1400… only 52 to go. We should now be able to add the last 52 directly to the 634.  I can mentally stack them in my brain and then I know that 2+4=6 (and no need to carry, good!) and that 5+3=8.  So we have 686 as the final answer.

As I typed that, I realized that I actually used flash card memorization, COUNTING UP (“new common core” myth), and CONVENTIONAL addition at the end. I merged 3 different methods to come up with the quickest answer available, that’s accurate, and required no pencil/paper, calculator, or reliance on just one method.

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Jacob’s green
May09

Jacob’s green

9 leaves of kale
3 cups baby spinach
6 stalks celery
2.5 oz ginger
1 cucumber
1 lemon
3 granny smith apples

image

 

Yields about 40 oz

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Pink power punch
May08

Pink power punch

Notes:
1 cup strawberries = 1/3 lb = 4 oz juice
1/4 pineapple = 4 oz juice

From Android Juice Rx

 

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Pineapple-mango

image

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